We toss and turn all night in the squeaky hotel bed. Mud seems to be at baseline when we wake up but I feel like I haven't slept at all. My head is still fuzzy from all the sunshine and I'm not sure I can face it again.
Luckily there's a cafe open down the street and we manage to get some potatoes and vegetables, which helps a little. By the time we have to leave town, I've had a nap, iced tea and one aspirin and that seems to do the trick.
We spend much of the day on the side of the road, waiting for a ride out of Magdalena. A man across the street is selling apples and gives us two each, then insists on giving us each a cold bottle of water. So generous. New Mexico has been, overall, a very different kind of place than I'm used to. But it's these small acts of kindness that add up to make me think so fondly of the state.
We eventually get a ride, then another who takes us an hour on dirt roads, stops at a cow trough so we can fill up water bottles and drops us off at the CDT trail head. It wasn't exactly where we were headed, but only about 10 miles from where the CDT and GET overlap so we're happy to be there.
It's just a few miles of walking before we reach a spot too beautiful not to stop and camp. The clouds are whisping in the sky and the grass is all glowing in yellow. While we're eating dinner, the sun sinks below the horizon and lights the sky in a hundred shades of orange and pink.
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